The Golden Pig
2007 Donny GoodMac Chardonnay
The Donny GoodMac team absolutely bloody loves chardonnay. Chardonnay from the Yarra, Margaret River, Tassie, Burgundy, even the Mornington Peninsula for heaven's sake. If it's not the greatest white grape then it's pretty bloody close. So if we were ever going to make a white wine it was always going to be chardonnay.
And then we found out 2007 was the Year of the Pig... well in fact, even better... read on.
According to our local Chinese soothsayer (okay, the waiter at Golden Century), 2007 was the Year of the Golden Pig which occurs every 60 or 600 years depending on who is telling the story, and how much chardonnay and MSG is in the system when you hear it. Children born in a Golden Pig year go on to make huge successes of themselves so Donny and Good did their bit by producing our first white wine, while 'Mac' did the real thing and produced baby Eliza (she'd want to be successful, if only to show up the failings of her father).
So we started our Search For a Suitable Chardonnay Vineyard (soon to be featured on Arena and hosted by Good) and came upon a gem: a 25-year-old chardonnay vineyard in the heart of the cool Coldstream sub-region of the Yarra.
We know a lot of people have a lot of views about chardonnay. For instance, there are stupid people who believe that Australian chardonnay is the red-headed stepchild of the Australian wine industry. And there are stupider people who think that all chardonnay is oaky, buttery and fat. And these misconceptions (well, yes, there was some degree of reality a few years back, granted) have become so bad that everyone is drinking New Zealand sauvignon blanc for Christ's sake! Let's face it, if the Wallabies really turned to shit (and it's not far off), would we just start following the All Blacks? Especially if the All Blacks smelled like the train trip on the way home from the Melbourne Cup cheap perfume and sweat?
So back to the inaugural Golden Pig.
The fruit was all hand-picked in early March at very moderate sugar levels, resulting in a wine of just 12.5% alcohol (not fat, not alcoholic, not Donny). The fruit was whole-bunch pressed and a third was allowed to ferment 'wild' in the best Burgundy barrels we could get our hands on. This means, we think, that Good ran out of cultured yeast and just let one barrel run 'feral' and by gum, it has certainly added a certain 'funk' and groovy sort of mouthfeel to the wine that the three of us are having quite a time trying to describe. The wine is a little bit 'out there' by any measure, there is only 30% new oak and the wine was stirred on lees for around 10 months before bottling.
It won't appeal to everyone, particularly not to stupid people who don't like chardonnay, but it will appeal to people who like white wine of real character, flavour and interest. And it will only get more interesting with a couple more years in your cellar.
As for the price of the wine well Donny and Good had yet another blue over this. Good reckons it's bloody brilliant (she would, she made it) and thinks it should be $50 a bottle. Donny thinks it's nice, but likes the idea of people actually being able to afford to taste the thing and it is, after all, just our first attempt.
So it's $260 per dozen, delivered to your door. That's good value there.
So what else is going on in our world?
Well, as most of you probably know, the 2006 Pyrenees shiraz sold out in a month. A couple of very useful reviews from Campbell Mattinson (95 points) and Gary Walsh (93 points) certainly got a few people talking. The wine was also snapped up by Nick Hildebrandt of Sydney's Bentley Restaurant & Bar, where it continues to prosper and be savoured alongside some of Sydney's best food and in the midst of Sydney's most eclectic and challenging wine list. We hope you, our loyal customer, got your little piece of the action because the wine is absolutely bloody tops and will be even better in a few years.
The 2007 reds look pretty good too. The Pyrenees
shiraz will be bottled in August 2008 and available in
November. Again, supply will be short and demand will
be high, so if you want to put a reserve on a case or
two (max), please make sure you mark your order form
appropriately.
We will also be releasing our first ever cabernet
sauvignon later in the year, sourced from the same
vineyard (well, not the exact same vines) as the 2007
chardonnay. This cabernet vineyard is around 30-yearsold
and again, being the counter-cyclists we are, we just
reckon Yarra Valley cabernet is tops why not make up
your mind for yourselves?
And vintage 2008? Well, it was certainly a challenge. Our
yields in the Pyrenees were lower than ever and as such,
we will probably have only around 100 dozen for sale in
late 2009. The Yarra fruit fared okay, and in addition to
the chardonnay and cabernet, we decided to have some
fun and co-ferment some Yarra shiraz and viognier, so
we will have another little piggy to add to the portfolio
some time next year. At the moment this wine, sourced
from a vineyard up towards Kangaroo Ground, looks
really interesting. We will keep you posted.
And please note in October or November 2008, the
Donny GoodMac roadshow is planned for the first ever
time. Yes, we thought we might unleash ourselves on
Sydney, Melbourne and Noosa for one night only in each
market. Quite what we will do remains undecided, but
at the very least we will pick a reasonable restaurant
and open all our shiraz from 2002-2007 and everything
else we have made, too, including sneak previews of
our new wines. And we reckon we might show you the
wines we really love to drink as well. Keep your eyes out
for an email invitation around September and again, act
quickly as you can be sure it won't be real big but it will
be real fun.
And also if you lose your order form make sure you
visit
www.donnygoodmac.com.au where you can
download another and also maybe see a few pictures
and things if we get our act together some time in the
next couple of months.
So that's it from us... almost.
Of course you want to know about Key Largo Lad, our
beloved greyhound. Well, at April 10, 2008 his stats looked like this: 64 starts 10 wins, 14 seconds and 13 thirds that's running a place exactly 50% of his starts. That, my friends, is
a dog as honest as the day is long. He is a champion.
Oh, and prizemoney of $17,325 doesn't hurt either,
considering he cost four grand!
Thanks for being top people and great customers.